12500 ft above sealevel......the beginning!!

Where do I start from??? Okay, from the very beginning...

It was February 2004...life was so mechanical...office to home to office to home....was bored of the routine, wanted to take a break....very badly. That’s when I got a call, “Pulse, how about going for a Nature Trek? YHAI conducts various treks in summer, maybe we can make it to one of them” said Jen. I just needed an excuse and jumped at the idea. Called YHAI at their Parel office and got their website address. Checked their website and was impressed by the no. of treks conducted by them in Himachal (and other parts of India). I was more keen on Himachal for one; it has Himalayan mountains, second - wanted to experience snow and third, was always fascinated by pictures of Himachal Pradesh.

One fine day I went to YHAI office and collected membership forms. Yes, they said we need to be a member of their organization to join any of the treks. Jen couldn’t make it coz she got engaged around that time. Finally, it was me and my 2 sisters on our way to Himachal. We started planning our trip from first week of March. The trek was to happen in end April. So it started...the planning, shopping, booking tickets, gathering stuff/advices from friends for the trip.

Finally, the day of departure arrived, 24th of April. We left for Chandigarh by Paschim Express. The train departed at it’s scheduled time 11.30am from Bandra Terminus. Our compartment was shared first by a Punjabi couple with their two kids, a boy and a girl. They were travelling till Baroda. Their son, Deep was a friendly kid and wanted to share his jokes with us. Next, got in a Tamil couple with their two kids, both boys and was there chaos after that?? Mayhem!! Both the kids were howling for their Appa (father) constantly. Their parents were one harried couple. And so were we, hassled during the night by constant howling by the Appa’s younger son. Next came a Gujarati couple with their two kids, a boy and a girl again. These kids were well behaved (thank God for small mercies). Reached Chandigarh the next evening at around 4pm.

First task after reaching Chandigarh was to book bus tickets for Manali. We got into a jhintak autorichaw just outside the station which took us to a Travel Agency owned by Lt. Col. K.S.Gill(Retd.) and was he one cranky guy? but as honest as they come. We were given student discount on the bus fare (he he he). The bus was to leave only at 8 in the night so we thought of checking out Chandigarh in the meantime. That jhintak auto was still around so on we went painting the town red...first we were taken to Rose Garden, which was honestly ‘thakela’....then went to Rock Garden, which was quite innovative I would say, and then to a lake, which was no different from Powai lake back home. Anyway, Chandigarh is very interesting in the sense that it is very well planned, neat, clean, spaced out and well maintained. Even the people there come across as well educated and well behaved. Had Punjabi dinner and geared up for the journey (8 hours) ahead. The bus was comfortable and we were eager to reach base camp Seobag in Kullu. As the bus started gaining altitude, the breeze was getting chillier...brrrrr. Had to wear our jackets to keep warm and tried to catch a wink. Glanced out of the window once when the bus was navigating a pin-bend and that was my last attempt to look out. I mean I wouldn’t dare to imagine how the driver managed to still stay on land inspite of the dark, narrow roads he was driving on (to one side was a deep gorge and even a slight slip would mean ta ta bye bye forever…) Time passed without any mishap and just when I thought I could sleep comfortably, the conductor said we have reached Seobag. Out of the bus we climbed with lock, stock and barrel and it was only 5.15am. The morning was freezing as it had rained there the previous night and it was still dark. We three were shivering inspite of warm clothes. Anyway, to our chagrin, that was not the base camp for Chanderkhani Pass (the camp we were supposed to report to). The bus had dropped us at Babeli Base Camp, which was a camp for families. Thanks to our stars again, the keeper there was a kind soul and let us in We got freshened up (in freezing water) and were served hot tea (God bless that man). After tea we started walking, with our heavy luggage, towards our base camp at Seobag which was a good 3km away from Babeli. The view was breathtaking though and the walk seemed pleasant. We walked for sometime along the river and saw a bus approaching. Waved the bus to a halt, which dropped us to Ramshila Bridge. Another auto tarried us from the bridge straight to our base camp.

Some of our batchmates (from Bombay) had already reached the base camp. We waved to them. The camp leader, Mr. Pramod Kant (PK) was not very pleased with our gesture. He forever had a pissed off expression plastered on his face. We filled up our admit forms. It was 7 in the morning. We were feeling fresh inspite of two days journey (by train, bus and auto). We were part of the camp finally and full of anticipation. The previous batch, ie., CP1 was back from exercise and I waved at Vikram who was all smiles. Breakfast was announced at 7.30am. Mitali, Mansi and Chaitashree, girls from Bombay were already settled in our tent (no. 9). Dumped our bags in same tent, fished out our plates and mugs and off we went to our first meal in the base camp. People from CP1 were friendly and started chatting up with us.

First day was meant for rest. We could go sightseeing or shopping to Kullu or Manali but were expected back at the camp by 5pm. We had enough traveling for two days and hence decided to explore the place around base camp. After breakfast, we went wandering towards river Beas, which was in full flow. Watching the river flowing serenely was a contrast to the flow of traffic in Mumbai. We sat on a platform near the river and just enjoyed the cool breeze for some time. We went exploring the road that runs straight along the base camp. Saw apple trees for the first time in my life. Some strange trees with beautiful flowers were scattered all around. Suddenly, three children in school uniform came running down a nearby hill. They were so comfortable climbing down that steep hill that we just stood there watching them, amazed. They were carrying school bags as well as a bag of roses, probably delivering them to someone. They looked so happy and carefree. Climbing up for some time made us feel tired, so just sat on a huge rock by the road side. That’s when we saw a girl carrying a rucksack coming up from the other side. We took a guess that she could be one of the trekkers in our group. She passed us even without a glance. Was probably very tired and wanted to reach the base camp as soon as possible. We later introduced ourselves at the camp. Her name was Sudha and she was from Delhi. In the afternoon we had our bath, in freezing cold water. Then got busy getting rid of insects (entipedes) crawling all over our tent, but to no avail. They seemed to be appearing from thin air. Finally, we moved our dhera to Tent no. 10.

A whistle announced lunch at 1pm. Lunch was delicious. Rotis, vegetable, dal and rice. After lunch we were lazing in our tent, all girls, 7 of us, when slumber started taking over. When I woke up around 3pm, Padmaja was fast asleep and Lux was nowhere to be seen. Padmaja woke up soon after and suggested we go to make a phone call to mom. We asked for permission from PK who said we should be back by 4.30pm. By the time we got some money from Chaitu (Lux had disappeared with the money purse) and left the base camp for nearby village it was 3.30pm. Our first trek had begun (almost). It was half an hour walk one way to reach an STD booth. Called up home, Mom wasn’t home. She had gone to cast her vote (it was election time in Bombay). Anyway, left a message for Mom that we have reached safely and are doing well. On our way back to base camp (uphill), we met two people with rucksacks. They were Piyush and his wife Nehal from Baroda who asked us for directions to the base camp. We started a conversation with them on our way back. Nehal would also share our tent. Finally we were 8 girls in CP2 batch.

Tea was served in the evening at 5pm with hot pakoras. After tea, we played some games. At 7.30pm, it was time for dinner. Dinner again was yummy. Camp fire at 8.30pm but unfortunately no fire. We had campfire with electric lamps (conservation of woods, you see). We were two batches on the first day, CP1 and CP2. CP1 had put up a good show since it was their turn that night to perform at the campfire. Quite a talented lot they were. Bournvita was making the rounds for those who liked to have milk before going to bed. Campfire was over by 9.30pm. Bed time was 10, meaning lights would go off at 10pm sharp.

That night was a lil scary, thinking about the insects getting into our blankets and crawling all over us. Chaitashree, especially was hyper coz all the insects seemed to get attracted only to her. But surprisingly we had a very good night’s sleep. Woke up the next morning at 5.15 to the announcement of bed tea. We were to assemble for morning exercise at 6. But PK started blowing his whistle right from 5.45. This had everyone scrambling around looking for their towels, getting rid of toothbrushes, getting into their shoes, etc. So at 6am sharp we started jogging on the road outside our camp and alongside the river. Was it refreshing or what!!! The sunrays had still not reached the east bank of the river and the breeze was still chilled. Me, as usual was not able to keep up with other joggers and lagged behind. Anyway, caught up with them when they had to halt for stretching exercise. Stretching part was good since I was used to more rigorous stretches in SDIPA (that’s Shaimak Davar’s Institute of Performing Arts, for the uninitiated). Back to camp at 7am followed by camp cleaning session, which was to pick up wrappers and such and put them in the wastebasket. Breakfast again at 7.30. This time they had served yummy dalia along with the breakfast. This was our day of acclimatization. We were given a rucksack each and a pair of blankets the previous evening and also checked our weight. We were to pack our rucksacks with those two blankets, a bottle of water and get ready to leave for acclimatization and orientation at 8am sharp. CP1 had their acclimatization the previous day and today they were going for rock climbing and rappelling.

So on we went, all 26 of us (yes, we were a batch of 26 people) climbing up a steep hill to get the feel of what’s coming our way in the next 7 days. The walk to the hill was good, climbing up the hill proved to be very exhaustive. I was doubtful weather I would be able to manage the entire trek. Once we reached the stream, which was the end of climbing part, life was beautiful again. Water in the stream was cool and refreshing. We were given orange squash to drink and a round of introduction begun. Some were from B’bay, some from Gujarat, Delhi, Chennai, Kerala and Hyderabad. After spending about an hour there, we started back for base camp. The walk back was simply beautiful. We walked through the village, met local people, the school kids, who were happily waving at us. We reached back to the base camp on time for lunch. Again a lazy afternoon and games in the evening. That night we tried to watch Venus and Mar through the telescope but the sky was overcast with rain clouds. It was our turn to perform at the camp fire and we had only about an hour to prepare. I was forced to give a performance, actually I just read out some funny shayaris from my cellphone, which I had cleverly copied into a notebook ;-). Yes, it was clever thinking on my part (can you hear the trumphet blowing??) since we didn’t have much time. Friends, let me assure you my performance was a hit, the audience wanted more (but there was no source for me to borrow more shayaris (he he he). Next morning after exercise and breakfast, we left for rock climbing and rappelling. Rock climbing was scary. I mean you have to be an insect OR an insect to climb rocks. How else does one help but fall off it?? Sudha came to my rescue. She literally pushed me half way up that damn rock and other half way one of the guys from our group pulled me up. Phew!! Reached the top, but wait, it’s even more scary up here....one slip and no, you don’t go down, you go up....straight to heaven. Soon enough, it was my turn in rappelling. Ropes and earnest in place, I followed carefully every word uttered by the instructor, so carefully that my feet were still on the edge of the rock but my entire body was bent down (yes, I was upside down). I heard few shrieks from the crowd, especially girls. Nope, I didn’t lose the grip on my rope and propelled myself in sitting position and started sliding down. Perfect, the landing was just perfect. Again, we were back to the base camp for lunch but the afternoon was not for relaxation, it was for packing rucksacks for actual trek. We were advised to pack as less as possible, since the trek would be quite exhausting. That evening each of our rucksacks were checked (for any unwanted items) and weighed and cleared for carrying the next morning. Our luggages were locked in the store-room. Games as unsual in the evening and dinner, followed by campfire and performance by CP3 group. That night we went to bed in anticipation of excitement and adventure awaiting us the next morning....and guys, the trek was one helluva experience.

Ummm, it depends on my mood if and when I would write about the actual trek to Chanderkhani Pass. Adios till then :-)